Art Deco Preservation Ball and The HIGH STYLE exhibit at The SF Legion of Honor

In May, Mark and I were able to attend the Art Deco Preservation Ball at the Scottish Rite Center in downtown Oakland.  It was a magical evening, and the experience rivaled that of making my gown for the event, which took a little over a month. I absolutely love designing and making historical dresses for art deco events. 

And, I LOVE to go to fashion exhibits SO the High Style exhibit at the San Francisco Legion of Honor was quite the treat.  Of course the two dresses pictured above were my favorite and a total inspiration for next year's event.

Here are some photos of my dress in progress:

I started by draping the gold brocade on the dress form front.

I hand smocked the side panels on silk charmuse, as I wanted to have some soft drape in the skirt but a fitted bodice. Smocking was a great way to reduce the fullness on a large part of the fabric.  It's also an older technique and seemed an appropriate accent for a 1920's style dress.

I wanted the lace edge to be curved from front to back, so I cut out the scallop design on both borders and shaped the full width of the lace so that it was curved on both sides to the center of the panel.  You can see the finished effect in the photo below.

Front View

side view

Back View

 I also decided to make a corset to wear under my dress.  I really wanted the silhouette to be authentic.  It was fun to make, however, I needed to add a stretch panel in the back as the original design was a little (ahem) small.

Here are some more photos from the event:

What to wear to Gatsby this year?

 I was surfing eBay the other day and came across two amazing vintage magazines from the 1920's.  Due to my ever so slight obsession with the 1920's and figuring out my outfit for the next Gatsby Summer Afternoon, the two magazines made it into my shopping cart and are now in my hands.  I couldn't resist the great cover on Mode Pratique (above).  The Costumes are perfect for a sporting afternoon.

This cover of Le Petit Echo de la Mode is even more sporting and just what I've been thinking to do for the last couple of years.  If I start now, a sweater could be knit and a tennis skirt and blouse sewn.
Who out there wants to do this with me? 
Here are two more images from the magazines.  Such great inspiration!!!!!

This last one, is less "sporty" but couldn't resist including it.  Love the elegance of the time!

And here is a photo that is reminiscent of the time.  My grandmother Franny's friend within the Singer Midget Troop.  I think it's from the 1930's and not the 20's, but sporting just the same....

1920's Fashion

This is an essay by sewing student, Maya Young,  written for her English Class.  I hope you will be as thoroughly impressed as I am.

1920's Fashion

by guest blogger - Maya Young (age 12)


The 1920's began with the revolutionary creation of a few fashion designers' influential ideas.  This was the era where women abandoned all restrictions.  the concept of no corsets, low waisted dresses, and earning equality with men, ushered the dawn of a decade in which fashion created the modern woman.

Frances Heger Beniades

The fashion of the "Roaring Twenties" started in the City of Paris.  This time period was know as the golden age to many french designers.  Women longed for a more active role in society in the 1920's, and the arena of fashion was no exception.  It was a time period known for great change and creativity.  While a radical change came after the First World War, and transformed the fashion industry, the famous fashion trends of the 1920's did not truly emerge until 1926 (fashion-era).

Women's fashion was inspired by men's clothing of the time.  The style of this glorious time period, liberated from corsets, gave way to a new boyish look.  Women were freed for mobility and action, and began to gain equality with men by cutting their hair short (Everyday Fashions).

One of the most prominent designers of the 1920's was Coco Chanel.  Her signature style was the supple use of Jersey and simple ensembles consisting of a jacket, blouse and skirt (Everyday Fashions).  The masculine look was popular, and soon women would wear trousers, with credit to Coco Chanel ("1920's Flapper").  Other Designers such as Jean Patou and Jeanne Lanvin were also popular with the athletic look ("1920's Flapper).

Maya Wearing a dress she made from a 1920's pattern found on Etsy

The evolution of art and jazz in this period also motivated the fashion of the time more and more.  Art deco became a substantial part of this change, and was heavily influenced by surrealism, abstraction, and geometric forms.

The hats in the 1920's were the most memorable accessories of the time.  The cloche at, as it's most commonly known, was usually made of felt to conform to the head, and was worn low on the forehead.  it was also sometimes made of beads or lace (Cloche Hat).
 

http://www.etsy.com/shop/DLDesignsHatPatterns?ref=seller_info

Maya in a hat she made from etsy seller DL Designs

Unfortunately this era did not last.  The flapper lifestyle did not survive following the Great Depression ("1920's Flapper").  The depression and changing times were forging new fashions (Everyday Fashions).  But this iconic time period in fashion lived on, and the idea of modern imperative for freedom and movement continues throughout fashion history.





Citation list
1. "1920's flapper" 1920's women. Last modified 13 March 2012 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flapper

2. Blum Stella. Everyday Fashions of the Twenties. New York, NY: Dover Publications, Inc., 1981.

3. "1920-30." 1920's Women's Fashions and the Changing Role of Women. 2005. http://1920-30.com/fashion/

4. Thomas Pauline. "fashion-era." Flapper Fashion 1920's C20th Fashion History. http://Fashion-era.com/flapper_fashion_1920s.html

5. "Cloche Hat." Cloche Hat, Design, and Lter Fashion. Last modified 9 February 2012. University of Houston Digital Library. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloche_hat

Suspect Walks into Jail Office

Interesting things come in vintage pattern envelopes....

Headline:  "Suspect Walks Into Jail Office"
Copy reads: "A dapper young fellow, wearing blue corduroy trousers and a dark sweater, walked into the sheriff's office Monday and addressed Chief Deputy Sheriff George Beckstead thus:
"I am Jack Bunce, 22. My address doesn't matter. You want me for a burglary."
And it's just as well that he did, for deputy sheriffs were preparing to jail him within a few hours as a suspect in the burglary of the Texas Oil company service station at Thirty-third South and State streets last Tuesday.
Mr. Beckstead said Bunce admitted taking eight tires from the service station and selling...."

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Goes to show, you never know what you get with vintage stuff.  This was so much fun to receive after a frenzied Etsy and Ebay splurge where I purchased four vintage 1930's patterns for my daughter and myself.  This pattern is a homemade additional collar pattern for the young girl's dress.  Here are a few more images of the pattern and the dress I'm now working on. 

Dress in progress

Pattern envelope and instructions

Newspaper collar pattern

Work in progress.....

More on the dress itself later.

Going to the Gatsby Summer Afternoon

 Such a fun way to spend a Summer afternoon.  The Dunsmuir house in Oakland, provides and elegant background for this special day brought to us by the Art Deco Society.   Every year folks dress up in Art Deco Attire (circa 1915-1940) and come out for this Event.  Whether you like vintage clothing, vintage cars, a great picnic or croquet, you will be in for a treat.

There were many amazing picnics, but this year it was all about the clothes for me.  My friend Joy Johnson found two fabulous matching dresses for myself and my daughter (see below photo), so we were able to dress up and compliment each other. Such a thrill for a mom personally obsessed with American Girl dolls as well as sewing and times gone by.  We were so lucky that the dresses fit and we fit in beautifully.  I'm already thinking about what we'll wear next year.

 

Darling table with a lovely setting!

I was watching these two impeccably dresses ladies about all day.  Their dresses were fabulous.  I'm   not sure if they were vintage or if they made them.  In either regard - gorgeous 1930's.

Here are our dresses - Just needing a few minor repairs.

 Also Ella Schwartz above, posing on one of the cars.

 This ensemble was made from a pattern that belonged to the model's grandmother.  So cute!  Love the hat.

Wouldn't it be delightful to have a maid by your side?  And doubly special if her hair was an exact match to her dress. 

Looking forward to my next Gatsby!
Toodloo!