Art Deco Preservation Ball and The HIGH STYLE exhibit at The SF Legion of Honor

In May, Mark and I were able to attend the Art Deco Preservation Ball at the Scottish Rite Center in downtown Oakland.  It was a magical evening, and the experience rivaled that of making my gown for the event, which took a little over a month. I absolutely love designing and making historical dresses for art deco events. 

And, I LOVE to go to fashion exhibits SO the High Style exhibit at the San Francisco Legion of Honor was quite the treat.  Of course the two dresses pictured above were my favorite and a total inspiration for next year's event.

Here are some photos of my dress in progress:

I started by draping the gold brocade on the dress form front.

I hand smocked the side panels on silk charmuse, as I wanted to have some soft drape in the skirt but a fitted bodice. Smocking was a great way to reduce the fullness on a large part of the fabric.  It's also an older technique and seemed an appropriate accent for a 1920's style dress.

I wanted the lace edge to be curved from front to back, so I cut out the scallop design on both borders and shaped the full width of the lace so that it was curved on both sides to the center of the panel.  You can see the finished effect in the photo below.

Front View

side view

Back View

 I also decided to make a corset to wear under my dress.  I really wanted the silhouette to be authentic.  It was fun to make, however, I needed to add a stretch panel in the back as the original design was a little (ahem) small.

Here are some more photos from the event:

What to wear to Gatsby this year?

 I was surfing eBay the other day and came across two amazing vintage magazines from the 1920's.  Due to my ever so slight obsession with the 1920's and figuring out my outfit for the next Gatsby Summer Afternoon, the two magazines made it into my shopping cart and are now in my hands.  I couldn't resist the great cover on Mode Pratique (above).  The Costumes are perfect for a sporting afternoon.

This cover of Le Petit Echo de la Mode is even more sporting and just what I've been thinking to do for the last couple of years.  If I start now, a sweater could be knit and a tennis skirt and blouse sewn.
Who out there wants to do this with me? 
Here are two more images from the magazines.  Such great inspiration!!!!!

This last one, is less "sporty" but couldn't resist including it.  Love the elegance of the time!

And here is a photo that is reminiscent of the time.  My grandmother Franny's friend within the Singer Midget Troop.  I think it's from the 1930's and not the 20's, but sporting just the same....

1920's Fashion

This is an essay by sewing student, Maya Young,  written for her English Class.  I hope you will be as thoroughly impressed as I am.

1920's Fashion

by guest blogger - Maya Young (age 12)


The 1920's began with the revolutionary creation of a few fashion designers' influential ideas.  This was the era where women abandoned all restrictions.  the concept of no corsets, low waisted dresses, and earning equality with men, ushered the dawn of a decade in which fashion created the modern woman.

Frances Heger Beniades

The fashion of the "Roaring Twenties" started in the City of Paris.  This time period was know as the golden age to many french designers.  Women longed for a more active role in society in the 1920's, and the arena of fashion was no exception.  It was a time period known for great change and creativity.  While a radical change came after the First World War, and transformed the fashion industry, the famous fashion trends of the 1920's did not truly emerge until 1926 (fashion-era).

Women's fashion was inspired by men's clothing of the time.  The style of this glorious time period, liberated from corsets, gave way to a new boyish look.  Women were freed for mobility and action, and began to gain equality with men by cutting their hair short (Everyday Fashions).

One of the most prominent designers of the 1920's was Coco Chanel.  Her signature style was the supple use of Jersey and simple ensembles consisting of a jacket, blouse and skirt (Everyday Fashions).  The masculine look was popular, and soon women would wear trousers, with credit to Coco Chanel ("1920's Flapper").  Other Designers such as Jean Patou and Jeanne Lanvin were also popular with the athletic look ("1920's Flapper).

Maya Wearing a dress she made from a 1920's pattern found on Etsy

The evolution of art and jazz in this period also motivated the fashion of the time more and more.  Art deco became a substantial part of this change, and was heavily influenced by surrealism, abstraction, and geometric forms.

The hats in the 1920's were the most memorable accessories of the time.  The cloche at, as it's most commonly known, was usually made of felt to conform to the head, and was worn low on the forehead.  it was also sometimes made of beads or lace (Cloche Hat).
 

http://www.etsy.com/shop/DLDesignsHatPatterns?ref=seller_info

Maya in a hat she made from etsy seller DL Designs

Unfortunately this era did not last.  The flapper lifestyle did not survive following the Great Depression ("1920's Flapper").  The depression and changing times were forging new fashions (Everyday Fashions).  But this iconic time period in fashion lived on, and the idea of modern imperative for freedom and movement continues throughout fashion history.





Citation list
1. "1920's flapper" 1920's women. Last modified 13 March 2012 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flapper

2. Blum Stella. Everyday Fashions of the Twenties. New York, NY: Dover Publications, Inc., 1981.

3. "1920-30." 1920's Women's Fashions and the Changing Role of Women. 2005. http://1920-30.com/fashion/

4. Thomas Pauline. "fashion-era." Flapper Fashion 1920's C20th Fashion History. http://Fashion-era.com/flapper_fashion_1920s.html

5. "Cloche Hat." Cloche Hat, Design, and Lter Fashion. Last modified 9 February 2012. University of Houston Digital Library. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloche_hat

An Afternoon of Vintage Heaven

 

This last weekend, my daughter, Emma, some friends and I went to the Vintage Fashion Faire at the O-Club,  on Alameda Point.  We had such fun watching people, perusing stalls, trying on hats and living the lush life.  The couple above were the darlings of the show.  Looking their vintage best from head to toe.

Maya looking at posters from the 1920's

Oxford Shoes from the 1930's from Luxe Vintage Clothing

1920's Hat, Deco bag and Pumps from the 1980's (also from Luxe Vintage Clothing)

There were lots of vintage Fox Stole's at the Show.  This one was my favorite, though I hesitate to call out a favorite...

Two Future Mad Men?  No, just two boys from MKretro

Hounds tooth Suit anyone? Also from MKretro

I was really into this feather hat and I'm a little sad that I didn't buy it. 

The hats were everywhere and they were all affordable.  Why didn't I buy that hat?

Nice Shades! and this too, is from MKretro

Pretty Sweet too!

Wouldn't this be a fun display for a little boudoir?

Kelley's favorite necklace.

Vintage patterns

This was a really pretty little display of shoes, hat and Tulle dress

1960's Cocktail Dress

So much fun!  Can't wait for the next one.

Stories of Frannie - Part 1

My Grandmother, Frances Anna Heger Askin Beniades introduced me to the world of fashion. When I was small, just a young girl of eight or so, she started her stories.

Frannie grew up in San Francisco, and then Oakland, California. Her father was an exotic animal dealer who also invested in Real Estate. Grandma Fran was raised in a household with her mother, father, sister and brother alongside dogs, cats, monkeys and the occasional cheetah. She was born in 1904, lived through the Great Earthquake of 1906 and then went on to experience the roaring 20's in one of the most interesting Cities in the United States.

She often made her own clothes, designing them and then sewing them. She desperately wanted to study design. In that era, however, Fashion Design was a man's profession. So, ironically, she became a model. In that capacity, she was able to wear all the amazing clothing of the times. She was photographed in these clothes (see photos) and she modeled them informally at I Magnin in San Francisco, wher

e she walked the store, glamorously clad in gowns, furs and jewels.

Fran was an independant girl. She refused to meet a bo

yfriend at the "employee entrance" and instead walked out the front door of the store she worked in, never to see him again. She claimed to have been one of the first ladies to wear pants in San Francisco during the 1930's. And after her husband died in WWII, she ran her own boarding house.

Always in style and my own personal fashion Icon, my grandma Fran continues to influence my life. I think about her daily and I miss her very much. She died in the winter of 1996 after a long battle with Alzhiemers. She was almost 92 years old. I hope you enjoy these photos of her in her youth. They remind me of the stories she told and the adventures she had in the prime of her life.